The Rugby Breakdown is in Tahiti for the Papeete 7s, a men’s and women’s tournament (Oct. 11-12) that is building its international footprint. This weeklong opportunity to experience Tahiti as a country and rugby nation is provided by the host, Papeete Rugby Club, and multiple sponsors (e.g., French Bee).

Day 1: French Bee, First Impressions + Moorea

Paris Orly, San Francisco and Papeete, Tahiti are the main destinations through which French Bee connects, so for the U.S. traveler, it’s quite convenient to get to the French Polynesian capital. The Sunday flight from SFO to Papeete is an eight-hour red eye, so after a night’s sleep, one awakes and exits onto the tarmac of Faaʻan International Airport, which is surrounded my mountains and flowers. You walk into the airport with sleepy, smiling travelers into a live musical performance in the lobby. After immigration, a lei around the neck awaits. (How great is my huge face in the following reel?!)

 

The SFO group was whisked away to its accommodation for the week, Kon Tiki, to drop luggage before immediately getting underway with the itinerary. In the early-morning hours, two important notes are worth sharing: Tahiti drives on the right, like the U.S. and unlike France; and motorcycles and scooters are *the* hack for island traffic.

We boarded the ferry to Moorea Island, a 45-minute ride with all the big views. Mount Mouaputa and its keyhole looms large as you approach Moorea. You can make hike the four-hour hike to the peak, or admire from afar and indulge in the varying legends of thieving gods, spear throwing, and the awakening of roosters. Generally, the locals speak French and have a working knowledge of English, but you’ll miss all the beautiful nuance if you don’t have a French speaker in your company.

 

The travel group included two teams — Australia’s Nomads and U.S.’s Eagle Rock — as well as media and Papeete hosts for the Albert Tour boat excursion. Blue-green waters, mountain-lined inlets, lots of folks fishing, surfing, snorkeling, and the most charming guide (photo below) — the key to any outing. Ours was especially ebullient during the rays and shark feeding stop. He was at his happiest when luring these beautiful animals to our feet and faces, and then laughing at that controlled torment that is “stay still while frightened” directive.

 

The adrenaline drained into a brilliant lunch buffet on a sandy beach with picnic tables in the water. I ate all the things, which is highly advisable in a bathing suit, because everything felt home-cooked and picnic-y — i.e., all the juices could run together for some fun taste combos. Afterward, the sand volleyball court turned into a performance space with a three-piece band, host-turned-war-dance-leader, and then fire dancer. Quick zip back across the island, seeing all the same landscapes in a quick review, before the ferry ride home, and 7 p.m. evaporation into the bed.

Day two … Polynesian Cultural Day

Today was all about Polynesian traditional sport, dance and music. The group gathered at the Complexe De L’opt, welcomed again by live music. This trio of guitars and drum put a lovely island spin on U.S. classics with big, booming, sweet voices, and always with a big smile. Is there any better way to start the day?

 

The answer is: Yes, by lifting a big boulder. The hosts introduced four strongman-like events — javelin throw, coconut toss, boulder lifting, log relay, tug of war — and put them in the context of Tahiti’s heritage. Particularly intriguing, the javelin toss had a target: A coconut posted on a tall pike. The backstory is that it represented the head of a rival tribe’s chief, after losing a battle, and it was used as target practice. The technique is a tough under-hand throw but maybe five hurlers hit the coconut.

Another fabulous lunch followed. It’s the stuff of deep afternoon naps. But before the glucose could plummet, the dancing and music began. Three men and three women took turns and danced together in a wide range of dances — from soft and romantic, to aggressive and plyometric-y! Another live band accompanied the dances, and then viewers had the opportunity to participate in the dancing and music. You can feel the pride in every movement, and the joy when the audience participated. There’s a tangible, satisfying exchange there.

 

Activities wrapped up around 3 p.m. and the French teams immediately took the pitch to train. It was a snap back to reality: There is rugby to be played soon. Word is there are 10 men’s teams — six local and four international (one of which is from the U.S., Eagle Rock) — and three women’s teams, Fantastic 7s from France and Nomads from Australia to join the local Papeete side. It’s the first year that the tournament is featuring a women’s division so there is big growth potential here.

Day three … Perimeter Tour + Opening Ceremonies

Today was all about simple, natural beauty. Three busses filled with the international teams and free-loaders (me!) for a drive around the perimeter of Tahiti Nui. The Taravao isthmus connects the main land to Tahiti Ito, but that full trek would have been too long of a day. Instead, we stuck to the main land for endless ocean-meets-rainforest landscapes and, for my bus, sing-along tunes courtesy of the Au Toa club from the Cook Islands. We stretched our legs and camera lenses at Plage de la Pointe Venus, Fa’aruma’i Waterfalls, Water Gardens Vaipahi and Grottes de Mara’a. They’re just beautiful places worth a deep sigh of appreciation. Big ups to our bus driver who K-turned the hell out of muddy, one-way roads. So impressed!

After a long and pretty drive, it was time to turn it around for the Opening Ceremony which took place at the picturesque Mairie de Papeete, or town hall. Rugby France Sevens is the main media production company in charge of the tournament and the dedicated volunteers have been instrumental in elevating the Papeete 7s into a true international event. Photographer XXX organized the senior and U17 team captains around ambassador Tyla King, who had the impressive 2024 Olympic gold medal in tow, and Miss Tahiti and runners-up.

 

Mayor Michel Buillard then welcomed attendees in the town hall gardens, while a host of dignitaries thanked visitors and the local teams for their participation. Papeete heavyweights Herenui Peretti and Allan Gooding also took the floor and introduced themselves as the charismatic and kind hosts that have marked my time here in Tahiti.

After a thorough review of everything that the hosting committee has organized and provided visitors, Tyla King and Miss Tahiti did the pool draw for the men’s tournament. Since there are three women’s teams — 7s Fantastics (France), Nomads (Australia), and Tahiti Selects — everyone will play each other twice and standings will name the champion. [Room for growth here, women’s teams!]

 

And then, you guessed it, another knockout dance and musical performance that put the “hip” in “hypnotic” hula-like routines. It’s such a crowd pleaser, especially the “volunteer” portion. AND, the same 7 Fantastics man from Tuesday was selected for Wednesday’s dance contest. He must have a face that says, “I want to warrior dance!”

All told, it’s such a lovely and lively tribute to guests, and one feels very honored to be part of the ceremony.

Day four … free day

Not too much report for Thursday, which was a free day. Did a lot of work and then walked to the stadium, Stade Pater Te Hono Nui, which is nestled in the hills. I like to plot out the layout and also see the venue at rest. There is a big grandstand that is perfectly situated for all-day shade, which is big, because somehow the 78 degree sun feels so much hotter here.

 

Walked back through the city to the famous market downtown, just seven minutes walk from our host hotel, Kon Tiki. Then dinner at the superb Surfhouse restaurant on the 7th floor. I’ve eaten here twice and have had the same waiter, who indulges me as I practice my French, which mostly revolves around ordering dessert for takeaway.

Day five … Game day

Game day! It’s a 10-team tournament for the men. There are six sides from the islands of Tahiti (host Papeete, Punaauia, Paea Manu, Pirae, Faa’a and Huahine), and four international teams from the U.S. (Eagle Rock), France (7 Fantastics), Cook Islands (Tupapa) and New Zealand (Te Au Toa). They’re split into two pools, and everyone played three games on Friday.

 

 

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There are three women’s teams — a select side from Tahiti, 7 Fantastics and Nomads from Australia. They’ll play each other twice and the winner will be named on standings (although Tyla King negotiated a 5th game for the visitors to get a bit more bang-for-the buck). The Tahitian side (which also featured an American who flew over with the Project Pōpolo refs to pick up some games) had some powerful ballcarriers in the middle of the pitch and they elicited the biggest cheers from the audience. But ultimately the French and Aussies were a bit too quick and clinical. The aforementioned met for the final game of the day, and it was a cracker — 17-7 to the 7 Fantastics. Looking forward to watching it all play out again tomorrow.